Sunday, September 9, 2012

Chianti Cooking is Based on Simplicity and Poverty

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When one has not had the occasion to eat sufficient there is only one possibility, to found the talent to create new dishes with food scraps, and this in the Chianti of the past happened to the extent of almost becoming an art. In this way poor habitancy solved two issues, using up till the last crumb what had been obtained with the bitter sweat of their forehead, and doing something to please God who would not tolerate food waste of any kind, since he would donate it straight through nature. Therefore food was a gift from God himself.

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In other words, the chef and source of creative inspiration behind the whole Chianti cooking, which has at its basis the virtue of necessity, is poverty. In the Chianti too the cooking tradition follows the need to consolidate a very little funds with the natural search for recipes that satisfy the senses and the soul.

Nowadays things are radically different, but is still alive the tradition of uncomplicated dishes. Former recipes are carried out with great dignity by those who feel part of this fast changing society, but want to retain this rich culinary heritage and culture of food, therefore also preserving their civilization, culture and traditions that so distinguish Chianti in the world. Ideally, a menu created by Chianti habitancy would include everlasting recipes such as vegetable soups, cooked at low heat for a long time and created with chopped carrots, potatoes, celery (or what is called the 'battutino'), and a lot of experience. There is a large plethora of soups that share this base, but they all have their inescapable personality and taste. The top of the chart is unmistakably made by the familiar 'ribollita' bread soup, which eaten the day after its establishment constitutes an even more perfect delicacy. And how not to list the 'Pappa Pomodoro', a bread and tomato sauce soup with its inescapable taste of fresh basil, garlic and tomatoes. Getting off the realm of soups and into a theme more attuned to summer, it is a must to mention 'panzanella'. This peasant formula testifies towards what has been said until now, since the main ingredients are stale bread left to soak in water and then squeezed, fresh tomatoes, freshly sliced onion, fresh basil leaves, olive oil and salt. This formula is still served this way, although man may add some extra vegetable, perhaps manufacture a statement on the improved conditions of Chianti, now for many decades out of poverty and famish.

Bread is the basis of all these dishes. It must be Tuscan bread, the one prepared without salt, because salt used to be more costly than gold. This bread can be oblong, round, thin or thick, baked in wood ovens when available, all the time crunchy, and probably good tasted the next day. After the fragrance of the freshly baked loaf is lost, the taste of the bread is better, just like a great wine needs to sit in feel with air for sometime before being enjoyed and displaying it's full body.

Again, one finds bread as the main ingredient of 'bruschetta'. The slice is toasted on live charcoals and then scented while still warm with a polite rub of a garlic clove. The final touch is a pinch of salt to taste and a thrifty swirl of oil to exalt the taste of the unsalted bread. This formula is maybe the simplest in the Chianti culinary tradition, nevertheless it constitutes a work of cooking art.

Chianti cold cuts are a great company for the unsalted bread. These sliced delicacies like raw ham, salami and sausages, are among the best in Italy. However, other meat dishes are not a staple in the Chianti culinary tradition, as meat in the past would be destined to the richer habitancy and noble families only. For this theorize there are not many meat recipes in Chianti cooking. Boar meat is something that one can find more often when eating in Chianti, as boars would live in the wild and be hunted by poorer peasants without owing any ration to their landlords. Today the choice of meats is of policy much larger, but the ways of cooking it still remain the same aged ones that mostly employ grilling or baking with uncomplicated ingredients, a tradition that continues to satisfy neophytes and experts of Chianti cooking alike.

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